The unspoilt, rather small and authentic island of Serifos has suffered from thousands of years of mining but not lost any of its charm. The rocky and barren landscape, sometimes wounded by the mining history, invites driving around and stopping here and there, hiking or just lazing at the beach.
Around 25, the locals say 72, beaches await you and will offer every kind from pebbles, sand and rocks. With all kinds of crystal clear blue to turquoise, you can choose the water you want to swim in.
The only way to get to Serifos is by boat unless you can afford a private helicopter transfer from Athens. During the summer season, regular ferry services from the capital or other surrounding islands are offered. The fastest boat from Piraeus will take you 2.5 hours to the port of Livadi where your host will probably wait for you and shuttle you to your accommodation.
There are three major car rental companies on the island: Poseidon, first on the pier on arrival. Coralli Car Rental, next to the K-Super Market (who also operate the Coralli Camping and Bungalows. With quite new equipment, they seem a little bit more pricy) and finally Bluebird Car rental, probably the cheapest on the island and with very friendly service. We recommend Coralli Rentals as they are close to the port and pick up and return is convenient before hopping on the boat. Be sure to reserve in advance if you visit during July and August. There is an hourly bus for EUR 1.80 which connects Livadi with Chora, the “capital city” high on the cliff, but to explore the island you definitely need to be mobile.
We stayed at Coralli Bungalows in the neighbouring bay of Livandaki, close enough to walk downtown but still far enough away from it all that you can sleep in silence. If you want to indulge yourself in one of Greece’s best beds, stay at Coco-Mat Eco resort, to stay here you will definitely need to be mobile. The stunning setting on Vagia beach will ensure that the sound of the waves will rock you to sleep.
Excellent fish dishes and authentic Greek cuisine is served at Gialos near the marina. The owners are super friendly and always up for a joke. This family business has been taking good care of their customers for more than 20 years. The coffee here is also very good.
Mpakakaki offers a stunning setting on the beach. Reserve or don’t be too late, otherwise you have to sit on the wrong side of the street. This place is definitely for meat lovers, serving steaks so big that they won’t fit on a plate or meatballs to die for. Try the local Rosé, a bit too sweet for our taste.
When strolling through Chora, sooner or later you will arrive at the main square with the wonderful neoclassical town hall. Sit down at Stou Stratou and enjoy an Ouzo and a small snack platter during the day or more generous mixed mezze in the evening and observe the crowds passing by. After dinner enjoy a sip of an Authentic Rakomelo, a warm brandy/ grappa beverage mixed with honey.
Kalis is one of the best sea food options in town, located in the idyllic bay of Livadi with some tables on the sandy beach. The restaurant is beautifully decorated with friendly service.
If you have seen enough Greek food and look for variation, Metalleio might be you choice. A bit off the main path in Livadi, the probably most upmarket restaurant of the island will serve you delicious food and has an excellent wine selection. Try the handmade pasta with minced veal or the rice pasta with tomato and Graviera cheese.
Indigo Café in the bay of Livadi.
Get lost on a late afternoon in Chora. Stroll through the narrow streets until you end up at the church of Agios Konstantinos. Enjoy the perfect view of the village and the bay of Livadi.
Visit the ruins of the mining area in Megalo Livadi. The ruin of the neoclassical head-quarters of the mining company are worth a picture as well as the old loading pier and the numerous abandoned machinery and lorries spread through the landscape. During sunset, the rusty witnesses of history will glow in all of their majestic colours.
Vagia beach is probably one of the most picturesque beaches. It is wide, has crystal clear deep blue water that invites you in for a swim. The Coco–Mat Hotel allows non-guests to use their sunbeds for EUR 18 a day which includes water and a towel. A bit further down the beach is open to all.
Livadi and Livandaki bays also offer beaches with shallow waters and are ideal for families or a quick refreshment after your excursions around the island.
Lia beach can be easily reached by a half hour hike from Livadi. This secluded beach is ideal for all those who enjoy sun bathing in adams costume. There is no infrastructure so bring your own picnic.
Did you know
Serifos is a hiking paradise. Twelve perfectly marked trails of all levels take you to almost everywhere. The most popular hike is probably from Livadi to Chora and takes around an hour and a half, it is an excellent activity to do. After, you will deserve a Greek feast for dinner in Chora.
Be online during your stay in Greece by purchasing a WhatsUp sim card from Cosmote (don't forget your passport for registration). Different packages are readily available, for example 3 GB for EUR 4 ("Giga Week" package). Cosmote offers excellent coverage. Recharges can be done at any kiosk. If you travel via Athens, buy your sim card there, as in high season the providers often run out of sim cards on the islands or don’t have any service points.
Most ferries for the Mediterranean can be booked on www.directferries.com Print your tickets at home or in any Greek port. Double check on site if the ferry is still running on the scheduled time and show up one hour before departure. All ports have cosy cafés and bars to enjoy a last drink or snack before boarding. Avoid eating before the ride though if the sea is rough to avoid a messy ride.
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